The Sweetness of Doing Nothing!

DAYS 4 - 7:  Monday - Thursday (May 21st -May 24th):  Italians have a saying for their lifestyle in southern Italy - Il Dolce Far Niente - The Sweetness of Doing Nothing!  After the chaos and fast pace of Rome, Amalfi was a welcome change.  We spent the next few days exploring the towns and the villages along the coast and touring the area.  The town of Amalfi itself was small and walkable so we enjoyed shopping and walking around the picturesque streets and piazzas.  The Duomo was in the center of town and it was relaxing to sit on the steps and eat gelato while watching the world go by.  Check out Jo Ann and Kelly in the photo below.  I think they're doing...Nothing!

We had plans to go to Positano to take a boat tour with "The Old Man and the Sea" but the weather wasn't cooperating, and the sea was a little rough and all boat and ferry rides along the Amalfi Coast were cancelled. So we hopped on a bus to Sorrento, had a nice lunch, and spent a few hours touring and shopping before returning to Amalfi.

Before dinner Jessie & JoMarie were sitting in the hotel dining room enjoying the Sweetness of Doing Nothing.  Were they a little homesick for Marla?  No!  Were they missing Tony, Kellie and the boys?  No!  Were they thinking of their little puppy back home?  No!  So, what were they thinking about and missing - Il Volo!!!  They were suffering from withdrawal of not being able to listen to their music and  the sweet sounds of their voices.  Jo Ann to the rescue!  She just happened to have her iPod with some Il Volo music, and soon they were as happy as could be singing to their heart's content for everyone to hear!

Later that night at the advice from our hotel, we went in search of the Piazza di Dogi to find a restaurant that they recommended, L'Abside Restaurant & Wine Bar.  We suddenly felt as though we were in a different world when we found ourselves in a quiet little piazza with a little gem of a restaurant away from the tourists and the main part of town.  We were checking out the menu posted on the outside of the restaurant deciding whether or not we wanted to eat there when a young girl came out and asked if we wanted to be seated inside or outside and added,  - "My Mama, she's in the kitchen and she just made some eggplant."  Well, I was sold!  We sat outside in what we later referred to as "our own little piazza" and had a wonderful meal cooked by the girl's mother and served by her handsome brother. 

By now we had already found out that Italian men are very charming, but when the brother came out at the end of our meal with some complimentary glasses of limoncello and said in his enchanting italian accent - "Compliments for my Sex in the City Girls", we were all charmed!  It was now our new favorite restaurant!

JoMarie's Dessert

The next day even though the sea looked calm, all boat and ferry rides were still cancelled.  But we heard there were ferries leaving out of Positano and since we had to go there anyway to pick up our deposit from the cancelled boat tour we decided to get on a bus to Positano to see if we would be able to get a ferry to the Isle of Capri.  The bus ride was crazy as we drove along the narrow, twisting cliff-hugging road along the Amalfi Coast to the beautiful town of Positano, picking up passengers along the way into the already overcrowed bus.  But it was all worth it once we got to Positano. 

We walked through the beautiful town with its picturesque houses seeming to cling along the side of the cliffs and cascading down to the sea.  We found the pier and bought our tickets for Capri.  Then we got in line to board the ferry, and what we saw next was enough to make us want to turn around and run back to the bus!  We finally understood why all other boats and ferries were cancelled as we watched the waves crashing against the side of the boat as the gangway repeatedly flung into the air and came crashing back down onto the pier.  We watched in amazement as the boat was rocking from side to side and the gangplank was flying through the air, and the people in front of us were getting sprayed with crashing waves as the crew in their bright yellow slickers were trying to help them to board the ship.  It was finally our turn to board and I watched as Jessie approached the ship just as a big spray of water splashed across her and the boat tipped dangerously to the side and the gangplank went flying up in the air and one of the crew members yelled, RUN!  So she ran!  Then someone else yelled, JUMP!  So she jumped - and as she jumped two of the crew members grabbed ahold of her under her arms and flung her high up into the air and propelled her across the crashing sea onto the flapping gangplank - and all the while she somehow managed to continuously make the sign of the cross and hold her hands in prayer!!!  We had no time to think as we all followed suit, and it wasn't until later that we laughed so hard at the sight we all must have made and we wished we had been able to take more photos!

Kelly and I were the last to board, and by the time we got on the boat Jessie was still praying!  It still makes me laugh just thinking about it!

The boat carried us safely to Capri and we spent a few hours touring the island, visiting the beautiful shops, and eating lunch in an outdoor cafe before it was time to head back to Positano to catch the bus. 

We got back to Amalfi towards evening, and since this was our last night in Amalfi before leaving the next morning for Sicily (and Kelly was returning home to the States) we went to our favorite restaurant in our little piazza and enjoyed another great meal.  Later that night in our hotel room as we were getting ready for bed, Jo Ann, Kelly and I suddenly decided to go for one last walk in Amalfi, so we left the hotel and headed toward town.  It was late and getting dark, but we walked through the town then kept on walking until we found the ancient Paper Mill that Kelly was so insistent on seeing (admit it, Kelly!).  But then we kept on walking and walking - higher and higher along narrow paths and lanes until we realized we were way above the town.  The town seemed so far below us, but we kept walking because there were so many interesting things to see.  We were surrounded by ancient homes, caves, farms, and fragrant lemon groves with lemons bigger and more beautiful than we'd ever seen.  We eventually decided we should go back before we got lost.  We returned to our hotel late at night and we decided it had been a perfect way to end our last evening in Amalfi. 

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